Magdalena Duma is quite possibly the most passionate designer I have ever spoken to - she draws so much from her surroundings and it shows so intensely in her work!
Hey there, how's it going? Fantastic!!!
How did you first start out as a designer? I grew up in a Communist country where things like clothes for my dolls were not sold in shops. So as a 8 yr old I would design and make clothes from off cuts of Fabrics from my families tailoring business.
So what is your design philosophy when you start any collection? Would I wear it and if so where? I am lucky to be able to design for women like myself. I feel that if I love it there will be others who will love it as well.
I love the edginess of your latest collection - where does your inspiration for this come from? The last collection, which is winter 2010, was inspired by my recent trip to Poland. While on a trip through the Polish Mountains I came accross the traditional Mountain Peoples Costume, the Goral. This traditional costume is the only one still worn for everyday use by the Mountain men.
What would you say is your greatest influence at the moment? Sex Appeal. I am going through a faze where I want things to be sexy and classic. Long geviety for the clothes is important to me. I want my customers to love and be able to wear the outfits for years to come. When my customer puts on a piece I want her to right away feel sexy, strong and playful, those three aspects are very important to me right now.
What kind of work goes into putting together one piece in a collection? It starts with an idea, which is then quickly sketched in a note book. I will then try to find the right fabric, unless it was the fabric that inspired the idea in the first place. Once the fabric and trims are sorted I will do a production sketch and get busy with patternmaking. The first pattern is then cut out in a similar fabric and made into a toile, which is a first sample. The toile is fitted on a model and alterations are made to the pattern to get the fit right. If the alterations were minor then the pattern is cut out in the right fabric, if however there were many changes to be made the proces of toiling is repeated again until the fit is right. The cut pieces are sewn together and the garment is then ready.
I'd love to watch all those unique pieces go down the runway at the biggest international fashion weeks - is this what you're working towards? Yes, for me as a designer there's nothing more rewarding then to see the whole accessorised garment on a model walking down the runway.
What are your plans for 2010? Well, so far the plans are to increase our wholesale base, particularly interstate and try to open up a store in Brisbane or Melbourne. We have many interstate and overseas customers and we would love to be able to direct them to our store in other states. We will also set up an online boutique so customers have access to our label where ever they are.
Who would you say is the most significant style icon at the moment? I don't pay attention to the young starlets of today as most of them pay someone to dress them therefore they do not qualify as style icons in my book. Some one who I do think was a true style icon is Brigitte Bardot, she had her own look and felt comfortable in it. The thing about clothes is that they should be expressions of oneself, not of the people around. Women today 'copy' a look rather then dress to suit their personality and body type. That is a shame as we would have many more interesting people walking the streets.
What changes do you see happening in the international fashion industry in the near future? I would love to say that the copyright laws would change making it much more difficult for the cheaper end brands to copy the high end ones, but I am very skeptical. Too many designers are forced to travel overseas to certain shops and buy items to reproduce as is or with minor changes. The creativity of these people is being suppressed and soon they become unfulfilled and loose the edge they had when they first became designers. So not only does the world miss out on great and unique clothing but also on great and creative people. The coping or 'development' as they like to call it, has gotten so bad over the last few years that now even the whole look of the overseas stores is being knocked off by certain Australian brands. I would love to see a law that would put a stop to it.
A random question from a previous interviewee, Joanna of Bowerbird Vintage: What is your biggest daily inspiration? The weather, how it makes me feel in the morning will determine what I do on the day.
And finally, what is a random question you'd like to ask our next interviewee? How many shoes do you own?
Speaking of which, the shoes in these shots from her latest collection are incredible :) As are the gorgeously cut pieces! (Also, how incredible is that bag!?) Thanks for your time, Magdalena.
Check out more of her work
HERE.
Magdalena will be showcasing at Fashion Forward Festival Sydney on the 7th - 9th May 2010 in Sydney, for any of you who are around. To find out more about featured designers, festival info and how to get involved, log on to www.fashionforwardfestival.com.au - the best part is that Fashion Forward Festival is a free cultural event for the public!
*love*
xx
